The Hole in the Rock and the Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands is 120 miles by sea north of Auckland. By road it is a four-hour drive or by plane, a one-hour flight, north of Auckland. It has a more temperate climate than Auckland, almost sub-tropical.

Aptly named, the Bay is studded with 144 islands providing an area of varied geographic beauty and unspoiled sailing grounds. There are innumerable anchorages, great fishing and diving and white sandy beaches within sheltered waters.

In the Bay, sailing distances between the islands are short, and peaceful scenic anchorages plentiful.

We sailed by  Roberton Island with its twin lagoons and where Captain James Cook anchored "the Endeavour" and where the Roberton family were tragically murdered, Moturoa Island's and its walking trails, Urupukapuka's farmlands, sandy beaches, and stunning cliff top views.

There are peaceful hideaways for all weather conditions.

On our way to "The Hole in the Rock" we came upon a school of dolphins and were lucky enough to spot some of them feeding. It is hard trying to press the button on the camera at the right  moment...really ahead of when they appear! However I am thrilled to have managed one shot of a mother and her young some way off from our boat.

Moturua Island  is a wildlife reserve and home to New Zealand's rarest and endangered birds including Saddleback, North Island Robin and Spotted Kiwi.

The Cape Brett lighthouse was built in Thames on the Coromandel, barged up the coast and winched 149 metres above sea level. The keepers lived and worked here from1910 until1978 when a new automated light went into service.

As you can imagine I've taken literally thousands of pictures on this trip, some better than others. I liked this picture at the side of the lighthouse rather than the one of the lighthouse  itself - a boring pic! These rocks reminded me of some of the stories of greek legends read when I was in late primary school...... many lifetimes ago......clashing rocks with sirens etc. The odd giant cyclop appearing from behind the rocks on a beach

The Hole in the Rock itself is quite spectacular and the colour of the water so vivid. Apparently 80% of the time the boat can be "steered" through the hole but unfortunately the sea was too high and choppy for us to so do! It did give me  a feeling of somehow of a "timeless eternity" and I could have sat there for hours just watching and listening to the sounds of the ocean hammering away on the rock.

Two landmarks guard the entrance to the Bay of Islands from seaward. Cape Brett, remembered for it's famous "Hole in the Rock", marks the eastern entrance and its partner, the Ninepin 11 miles beyond, marks the western entrance. Both are excellent places for fishing. As we sailed back to Paihia the sky turned black and we just managed to keep ahead of the heavy squalls.

The mainland settlements of Keri Keri, Paihia, Waitangi and Russell are holiday towns, with restaurants. Opua is a deep-water port, marina, and yacht base, a short distance from Paihia.


The historic township of Russell was the first European settlement in New Zealand. It is a pleasant and safe overnight anchorage with boutique shops and restaurants. However Russell or Kororareka as it was known, was considered at one time a very rough village........a  "Hell Hole".  Seamen and escaped convicts, often drunk and disorderly, helped give it its bad reputation. In 1835 Charles Darwin wrote that  the British there were "the refuse of society"! The increasing lawlessness concerned both Maori and Europeans.

On arrival back at the jetty three young boys were awaiting us to demonstrate "the haka". They were very well received and managed to make  what I can only consider to be ............."a good haul"!