Thursday 17 March 2011

Tamaki Village and the Maori Culture


Being a tribal Polynesian people, Māori have a unique protocol. The best place to observe it is on a marae (Māori meeting grounds). I had a wonderful experience visiting a marae in  Tamaki Village, Rotorua.

Welcome to the Powhiri.


A powhiri (formal welcome) at a marae begins with wero (challenge).  A warrior from the tangata whenua (hosts) will challenge the manuhiri (guests). 
He may carry a spear (taiaha) then lay down a token (often a small branch) that the manuhiri will pick up to show they come in peace. 

The tattoos of each tribe vary and have the same kind of context as clan tartans. However this is such a large part of the culture and  so important  that many maoris have permanent tattoos rather than applied transfers.  The women choose to have tattoos on their lips and chin. Where else would you show your commitment to you culture in such an upfront way?
Some kuia (women) from the tangata whenua (hosts) will perform a karanga (call/chant) to the manuhiri. 

Women from the manuhiri will then respond as they move onto the marae in front of their men.  

Les, a fellow traveller was our Chief  and we were the Kiwi tribe.

Whaikorero — Speeches of Welcome

Once inside the wharenui (meeting house) on the marae, mihimihi (greetings) and whaikorero (speeches) are made.  Les, the  Elected Chief of our Kiwi tribe is third in line. It really was taken very seriously. Anything else would have been demeaning.

To reinforce the good wishes of the speeches, waiata (songs) may be sung.
It is usual for the manuhiri to present a koha (gift) to the tangata whenua after greeting the hosts with a hongi — the ceremonial touching of noses. 

After the powhiri, kai (food) may be shared. We were certainly treated to a superb meal below.

On my travels I have visited ceremonies particular to the region. Sometimes, sadly on occasions, I have found them to be “touristy, even tacky”. Tonight I felt I learned a little of the real Māori culture which seemed  very genuine and came from the heart.
The village was in the most beautiful setting and the culture was shared with us in an informative and very interesting way. 

The welcoming ceremony was taken very seriously and all in attendance participated in a most respectful manner. 

We listened to the music and songs telling us of traditions and tales from long ago, mostly passed on by word of mouth. In this scene it was explained to us how the original tattoos were made with pigments and sharpened stones...I can't imagine it was a painless experience?
The dinner (for circa 170 people) was cooked  traditionally  in a deep hole in the ground with hot stones, wood and covered with earth. 

The food was buried in layers with the lamb at the bottom, then trays of whole chickens and then vegetables on top. All covered with the smouldering wood, hot stones, and layers of sacking and topped with earth. The process of cooking took several hours.
The meal, buffet style included fish, chicken and lamb with the most wonderful vegetables, sweet carrots, potatoes, kumara (a sweet potato) and plenty salads. It was so  tasty and the atmosphere participative yet unintrusive. It was a great experience and I will forever think very differently about all things Māori.
Whilst the words and the languages differ, I’ve come to the conclusion that ‘indigenous” folk type music is really very similar in lots of places across the world. 

People will make music with their voices and instruments with available materials and tell tales of their daily life experiences.
I hadn't appreciated the depth and meaning of a "spiritual religion"  to the Maori until tonight. 

Regardless of the individual's own beliefs or religion there were folks from all around the world in the room tonight and everyone was joined, man to man, in their real  concerns for the various disasters and their ongoing effects currently happening in different parts of the globe, the earthquakes, wars, peoples' sufferings 

How can man be so compassionate and yet at the same time be so cruel?. 

A joining of minds for a better world for our children?

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