Te Rerenga Wairu - Cape Reinga

This is  almost the most northerly point of North Island as well of course of "Aotearoa", The Long White Cloud, the Maori name for New Zealand. 

While it’s not quite the most northern point of New Zealand (North Cape is further north, but it’s a scientific reserve and not open to the public), Cape Reinga is definitely the end of the road.

After the hilarity of the sand dunes this beautiful place silenced us. 

Reaching the iconic lighthouse at Cape Reinga is a goal that many travellers set themselves.  

Here the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean, in a spectacular swirl of currents. Having read a little prior to visiting it is said that you can see where the sea and the ocean meet due to the different colours of the waters. 

The pathway from the carpark winds downwards towards the lighthouse and the waters on either side of the peninsula certainly seemed to differ, a very turquoise blue and a much deeper blue, blue if that makes sense! 

Whilst there were a number of visitors around folks were quiet and just soaked in the majesty of the visual wonders in front of us. 

Just in case it's not clear  the notice reads:Te Rerenga Walrua (Cape Reinga) marks the separation of the Tasman sea (to the west) from the Pacific Ocean. For maori these turbulent waters are where the male sea Te Moana Tapokopoko a Tawhaki meets the female sea Te Tal o Whitireia.

The whirlpools where the currents clash are those that dance in the waka (canoe).  They represent the coming together of male and female - and the creation of life.

The northernmost portion of North Auckland Peninsula is a small, narrow peninsula called Aupori. Its isthmus is the attenuated neck of land between Rangaunu Harbour on the east and the southern sweep of the Ninety Mile Beach on the west. The north-western extremities of Aupori Peninsula are Cape Maria van Diemen and Cape Reinga. 

Cape Reinga is about 4 miles north-east of Cape Maria van Diemen and is a steep headland, with a lighthouse 961 ft above sea level.

Shipping from Australia passes between the Three Kings and Cape Reinga and the flashing light is visible for 31 miles. On the lighthouse reserve there is a radio beacon for shipping and the cape is an important weather-reporting station. 

Cape Maria van Diemen (the northern extremity of the west coast) is 4 miles west and the North Cape lighthouse lies 20 miles to the east beyond Spirits Bay.

At Cape Reinga interest always has been focused on the small promontory and, more particularly, on a certain pohutukawa tree which grows out of its eastern side.

According to ancient lore, this was final departure point for the spirit of the Maori. It was said that the spirit, after travelling up the west coast to a spot a few miles south of Cape Maria van Diemen, continued overland to the western end of Spirits Bay and eventually reached the pohutukawa tree. There it descended the roots and entered the sea. (This tree is reputed to have been in position for about 800 years and is said never to have blossomed.)

The spirit surfaced at Manawatawi (the Great King Island) and, after a farewell look at the land of the living, descended again to the depths and continued its journey to the other world.

Te Reinga means “the leaping place of spirits (souls)”.

William Puckey, a pioneer missionary of Kaitaia, is believed to have been the first European to travel overland to Cape Reinga. This was in 1832. He wrote: “The place has a most barren appearance with sea-fowl screaming and the sea roaring and rushing against dismal black rocks. It would suggest to the reflecting mind that it must have been the dreary aspect of the place which led the Maori to choose this spot as his hell”.

Colenso is stated to have visited Te Reinga shortly after his ordination, with a convert. He tried to persuade his Maori companion to climb out to the tree and chop it down, but this the Maori refused to do.

The lighthouse itself is currently being painted with of course the requisite cones around. You cannot get inside  but you can imagine what it must have been like to have been the keeper there some years ago, the isolation, the winter fogs rolling inwards, the crashing of the surf, the circling of the sharks in the waters below and the companionship of maori spirits descending into their underworld? 

However today I would say it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited. It is more like "heaven" than "hell". 

I would love to be here with just a few close family members and a few friends to share this "spiritual" place.

On my left and looking way down below into the Tasman Sea I could clearly see about 7 or 8 sharks circling in the soft surf. You can just make out a few if you peer very closely.